Monday, February 21, 2011

Los Estados Unidos

I just returned from a 10 day vacation to the US, which was my first vacation back to the states since I left in August 2009 - yup, a year and a half. To be honest, I am really glad that I saved all my vacation for Year 2, although I definitely felt the distance after returning home. My parents' house looks different and even has TWO flat screen TVs now, everyone has high-tech phones that I can't quite figure out how to use, people look older, college friends gotten engaged, moved in with significant others, received promotions at work, and siblings have babies :) But all in all, it was an amazing vacation and I got to see so many family and friends.

Of course I enjoyed the obvious things like taking long, hot showers and eating Thai food, but what I really enjoyed was re-connecting with people, face to face. It is so hard to stay in touch and I feel that it was super important for me to not let too much time go by between the time I left the US and when I am finally done my service. I feel fortunate that I have had lots of visitors here in Guate, and more to come, because that definitely helps people to understand what it is really like here. But no worries for those of you who won't be visiting...that's why I try to keep this blog!

My first bit of "culture shock" occurred in the Houston airport, where I heard more Spanish than English spoken, but for the first time in a long time saw people of all different shapes, sizes, and colors. It really feels strange to walk in a public area without feeling like you're in a "fishbowl" as we Peace Corps volunteers often do. I felt the blast of cold wind as soon as I stepped out of the Philly airport, but was so excited that I didn't even care. It felt so amazing to be back in my house. I could have sat on the couch with my dog the entire trip and been perfectly content, but it was even more awesome to see so much family and friends and get to introduce David to everyone. Soon after I arrived to Philly, we drove down to DC to visit Andrew, Steph, and my little niece Gianna, who was only 3.5 weeks when we first saw her. I fell in love just holding her and looking at her peaceful little face. David and I even got to babysit while Andrew and Steph went to the gym, which was fun. In the short time I spent with her, I quickly learned her favorite way of being rocked, and also that she loves the sound of the blender. It will be awesome to see how much she's grown and changed when I return to visit in June.

During the DC portion of the trip, I got to see my closest friends from college and do a surprise bachelorette party for Marielle. I couldn't help but tear up when I saw those girls for the first time. It was crazy to think that the next time we would all be together wouldn't be until her wedding. I think that we definitely made the most of the very short time we were all together and had a memorable bachelorette night for her :)

One of my other favorite parts of the trip was giving a presentation on Guatemala with David to a group of 5th graders at Elkins Park Middle School (where I attended 5-6 grades). In the limited amount of time that we were able to speak to the class, we discussed things like the different foods, forms of transportation, volcanoes and touristy places to see in the country, what the homes and schools are like, and of course ending the presentation with a photo of fried ants, which the kids found really gross (and therefore cool). Even though it was the last period of the day and the kids are, well kids, they were really attentive and asked some awesome questions. Like when we discussed the volcanoes, they asked "why do people want to live at the base of an active volcano?" And when they asked about the money, I just so happened to have 10 quetzales in my wallet, so they asked what could 10Q buy. We wanted to bring up issues about development and poverty without making the discussion too "heavy" so, for example, I told them that in Guatemala, many schools only provide education up until 6th grade (which these students enter next year). They all cheered and said, "I want to move to Guatemala!!" but when I asked them if they'd feel ready to get a job after 6th grade graduation, they all kinda shook their heads in defeat. Interestingly enough, two of the kids were adopted from Guatemala, so you could see them paying extra attention during the presentation. In the end, I hope to get similar experiences to share about Guatemala, and definitely felt some pride while discussing Guatemala, as if I'd lived there my whole life.

Thanks to everyone who made the effort to visit with me...I look forward to seeing you again in June! And to everyone else who I wasn't able to see, I know the time will pass quickly before my next visit!

PS My internet is too slow to upload pictures to my blog, so check them out here: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2247593&id=7400486&l=f26663f3c2

Wednesday, February 2, 2011

Water project, Feria dance, 10K run, baby NIECE!

The past few weeks have been an incredible adventure, and I haven't even left Chiantla. Where to begin...first off, on January 18th, a beautiful baby girl named Gianna Materese George was born. It was a VERY anticipated and long-awaited moment. When I received the phone call from my mom that the baby was born, I was walking through the mountains on the way back from a community with Rosario, on a very windy and dusty road. It will be a moment that I will definitely never forget! Interestingly enough, Gianna's due date was January 15th. And days before her actual birthday, on January 14th, I went to visit a neighbor around the corner who I have become close with. She just turned 60 years old and has 6 children and 15 grandchildren (one more on the way). I was chatting with her, she asked about my sister-in-law, and I said "the due date is tomorrow so I'm expecting news any second now!" She said to me, very matter-of -factly, "the baby won't be born for another few days" and I was just like, ummm, okayyy. Noting my confusion, she added that it wasn't yet a full moon. I must have still looked confused because she said has proof because the births of her children occurred during full moons. Low and behold, when I walked out my door at 8 PM on the day of Gianna's birth, I saw the moon shining full and bright in the sky!

In just a few days, I'll be making a trip back to the states for my first USA vacation in 18 months. WOW. I have been living in Guatemala for 18 months. Anyway. I have been keeping extremely busy between work, hanging out with friends, and preparing for Feria. Remember how back in September I danced in a "convite" for Feria to honor the Virgin, Chiantla's patron? Well there are two Ferias a year, February and September, so the entire month of January I spent going to dance practice for two hours a night, five nights a week, to prepare for another performance of 10 songs on repeat for 5 hours. It was quite an experience, even the second time around. During the month of practicing, I felt myself getting really frustrated about the lateness with which we started and ended practice, the lack of communication, the disorganization. Not that these things are at all uncommon here - but when it comes to my professional life, I am more quick to take a stance on these things and speak more openly and "fuerte" about it. But in a religious and cultural activity, I felt that it was not at all my place to speak up. In the end, I was thrilled to have participated and people in my town were really happy about it too. A few days before the actual performance, some of the girls decided that I should be one of the 4 women who carried the Virgen de Candelaria in the final part of the event. Not being catholic, it did not hold the same meaning for me, but was regardless an honor to so actively participate in such a symbolic part of the whole performance.

Another Feria tradition, besides the ridiculous vendors completely covering the streets, super loud music and noise, and rickety rides, is the 10K race that this guy named Don Marco organizes twice a year. You may recall from a blog post a year ago that I ran in the 10K race and came in last place...but still won 3rd out of the womens category, since there were only three women! One of my favorite stories :) Anway, Don Marco is a super nice guy but always yells at David and me for running so slowly. For example, when I organized the 10K in August to benefit the youth NGO, David came in last place, and Don Marco yelled at him for not moving his legs faster and further apart. And then I ran the September Feria 10K soon after, once again coming in last place, and he was legit yelling at me when I crossed the finish line. These were his words: "You and that boyfriend of yours! You have gotten used to running so slowly! You are tall and have those long legs, and you don't use them! We Guatemalans, we are short people. I would rather have legs like yours. But you don't take advantage!" My reaction, other than surprised, was basically just, "thanks Don Marco for organizing a great race, see you soon!"

Well, this time around was really no different. I was happy to see that I was now one of six women running. And again, I ran my comfortable, "slow" pace, and coming around the last turn, about a half-mile away from the central park and finish line, Don Marco was waiting for me. He said, "hurry up, the last runner finished 10 minutes ago!" With that, he began running with me, in his jeans and black dress shoes, and urging me to move my legs faster. I guess he got tired of running slowly with me, and took off towards the park. A block away from the park, I hear the announcer say, "now approaching, Cara George" and I was of course totally embarrassed. My friend Nick who was staying with me told me that the announcer had been saying my name for about 20 minutes at that point and repeating, "the only runner we're waiting on is Cara George"

Despite the humiliation, they gave me a prize! I ripped off the wrapping paper when I got home, and saw...a heavy clay pot. Okay. I set it on the counter, and didn't really think much of it. Later that day, Nick exclaims, "that's a lot of mangoes!". and I was like, "what on earth are you talking about?" Well, the clay pot was stuffed with five ripe, delicious mangoes! Good thing he bothered to check inside, because I probably would have put it on a shelf somewhere, forgotten about it, and gone crazy trying to figure out what in my house smelled like rotting fruit. Definitely the most "unique" prize that I'll ever receive for participating in a race :)

The construction of my water tank project started last week, after a brief few days when the community told us that they wanted to cancel the project that we worked five months to solicit. I spent two days crying and trying to convince myself that it would not be a personal failure if this project didn't happen. Then, long story short, the community miraculously told us that everyone was back on board. The construction started two days later. Our goal is to have it finished by April. Fingers crossed!!!

Along with the water project, things at work have been going great. I am so happy to have a new and welcoming environment in my office and no longer feel uncomfortable and unwanted by the office personnel. In the remaining part of my service, I will be working more closely with an NGO that works in early childhood development to train the mothers of the children who attend their community centers, so that will be something that gets me out into the field more often, which I'm really looking forward to. My radio program is still going solid and it's always so fun when people tell me they enjoy listening.

I am completely overwhelmed with excitement for my upcoming trip to the states, for so many reasons. I find myself wondering if I'll even remember how to navigate DC like I used to. I feel nervous that going back will be like having to re-learn certain parts of my previous life. What do people talk about when they're not discussing the weather or the latest gossip? What do people eat if they don't eat tortillas every day? Don't even mention what one would talk about at a bar, since all we PCVs do when we meet up is complain about work or diarrhea. In any case, it should be a great trip. Stay tuned for my post-USA trip blog! Or to those of you reading back home...see you soon!!


The men of Nueva Union, San Nicolas (Chiantla) after constructing the first base of the water project

with my partner for the Womens Convite
Dancing
My costume and scary mask that I could barely see/breathe through

Dancing to Marimba music

One of the stops along the 5 hour event

Carrying the Virgen de Candelaria

After the big un-masking!

Being interviewed on TV

With a bunch of my young spectator friends

Saturday, January 15, 2011

Very happy holidays and overall good times

The past few weeks have been so crazy but I am finally taking the time to update on the end of 2010 and beginning of 2011, which have been some of the most awesome weeks I've spent in Guatemala. First: Christmas. I was invited to spend Christmas eve with a family that lives around the corner that I've become close to in the past months. They are a really big family and I always feel at home with them because it is always a fun and loud time when I'm with them - just like my real family back home! :) In Guatemala (and most Latin American countries in general), Christmas Eve is a really big deal. I went over to the family's house in the morning of Christmas Eve, and Doña Adalicia had been up since 5 am making tamales, which is the traditional food to eat on Christmas. I learned how to prepare and wrap the tamales in big leaves, and then we all hung out while the tamales cooked for three hours (she made 100 of them...no joke). Luckily, I had come prepared with red, white, and green nail polishes to give Christmas manicures, of which I did thirteen of that day with all the family members, young and old. It was a good time-filler because we pretty much sat around, hanging out and waiting for 12 midnight. At which point, it was just like New Years Eve - fireworks going off, everyone hugging and kissing. The family set off a ton of fireworks from the roof and street, and it seemed that every other family in Chiantla was doing the exact same thing from all the noise. Once the craziness of twelve midnight has passed, everyone runs back inside to open gifts, and then around 1 am we all sat down to eat a dinner of warm tamales and coffee. I lasted until 2 am, at which point I struggled to stay awake. Finally, I went home to bed, feeling so content from the holiday festivities and knowing it would be one of my favorite memories from Guatemala.

The next day, Christmas day, was almost like nothing in Guatemala. A few stores were closed, but otherwise it was a really normal day. Whereas in the states, Christmas is a very important day, in Guatemala, everyone just slowly recovers from the night before. I hung out with some friends in town, and then went home to rest and pack because the NEXT DAY I got to see my Aunt Patti, Uncle Kenny, Michelle, and Jeff! They came to Guatemala for a short trip after vacationing in Belize and I got to take them to Antigua for a night and then the Lake for two more. The day after they arrived to Guatemala, David returned after spending some time in Panama, and we all had a great time - I think the best part was hanging out at the hotel and playing board games, card games, and drinking games. Some of the other guests complained that we were too loud but I think really they were just jealous of all the fun we were having :) Jeffrey also jumped off a huge cliff into the lake, and the rest of us watched in awe/fear :)

The morning of my birthday, the Steinbergs prepared to depart Guate and David and I took off for Huehue. After a short 4.5 hours, we were back home and getting ready for my birthday party. Instead of doing a dinner, I had a birthday "snack" and invited people over for bean tamales and delicious carrot cake. Unlike in the states, where you invite only a bunch of friends your age, I had 30 friends between the ages of 2 and 60 at my party. And it was a great time! We played musical chairs and freeze dance, I gave a little speech, we ate cake and tamales, and it was all over by 7 pm. A perfect, simple, low-key birthday which is just what I wanted.

On New Years Eve Day, David and I headed back to the Lake, where we met Stefanie and Jason who came to visit from the states! They spent almost two weeks in Guatemala and it was incredibly fun and busy. It was probably the lamest (or most "relaxing") New Years Eve I'd ever spent, as I struggled to stay awake after 10:00 pm. When it finally struck midnight, I felt relieved about finally being able to go to sleep! The past week had been so nuts that by New Years Eve, I was exhausted. But I was happy just to spend it in the company of good friends and get up the next morning to start on our Guatemala adventure together. Some of the highlights of Stef and Jason's trip were waking up to see the sunrise over the lake, which was way less romantic than you'd think since we almost got eaten alive by chuchos (dogs). Then getting to take them to Chiantla, meet my friends, go for an epic run through the mountains, attend my English class and literacy class. It was really funny explaining their relationship to my Guatemalan friends, who are normally not used to having friends of the opposite sex and didn't quite understand how Stef and Jason could be "just friends".

Also, visiting Xocomil with them, Guatemala's AMAZING waterpark and hiking Volcano Santa Maria, one of Guatemala's highest and hardest hikes. I had a really difficult time, especially with the sudden changes in altitude, but once we reached the top it was breathtaking. There is a smaller volcano, Santiaguito, right below Santa Maria, and it is in constant eruption. To see one volcano smoking FROM another volcano above was an experience I'll never forget. We were so high in the air that I felt like I was in an airplane. The soreness in my legs for 5 days after the hike was a good reminder that it wasn't all just a dream.

Once David, Jason, and Stef all departed, I returned home and tried to remember what my normal life in Chiantla is like. There are some big changes coming up that I recently learned about; some good and some not-so-good. The good news: my proposal that I submitted to apply for USAID small project assistance funds was approved, meaning that I received $3,500 to build water tanks in one of my rural communities where the women have to walk two hours daily in dry season to haul water from a river. The project will benefit 36 families and the local primary school, so that the community can live with better health and hygiene, as well as invest their time in other productive things besides collecting water. The tanks are basically HUGE buckets that collect rainwater through a catchment system attached to the families' rooves. I am really excited to make this project one of my goals for my last 10 months and something that I know will significantly improve the lives of the people in this community.

Other news: my muni went on a firing rampage, which is really unfortunate, however one of the women in my office who had been making my life h--l was given the boot as well. And the OTHER woman who made my life h--l is being moved to a different office. Another woman I'm friendly with in the muni is being moved to OUR office to take their places!! So I am thrilled about that. Due to budget cuts, the muni is also consolidating the Children and Youth Office with our Womens Office. It is adding a lot to our already-overflowing plate, but it is a new challenge that will allow us to work in different areas.

Sad news is that Peace Corps told us that because of budget cuts through Congress, in addition to the fact that it's hard to find volunteers with special skills like the Municipal Development program requires, they are cutting our program. It is really heartbreaking for me, because as much as I've had challenges with difficult office personnel, unsupportive mayor and city council, etc. I really believe in our program and what it offers rural communities in terms of educating on human rights, citizen participation, and organizing groups at a community level. But, what's done is done, and since there will no longer be a Muni program in two years as we PCVs working in this area finish our service, the best we can do is keep up the work we're doing and go out with a bang...

To end on a happy note, my niece/nephew is due to be born ANY MINUTE! Stay tuned for news, and also for the next blog written by my guest contributors, Stefanie and Jason!

Volcan Santiaguito eruption, seen from above on Volcan Santa Maria

Stef, Jason, David, and I at the Zaculeu ruins in Huehue

On top of Volcan Santa Maria

My 26th birthday party

The night before my birthday, celebrating with the Steinbergs

With the Steinbergs in Antigua

Celebrating Christmas Eve

Learning to make tamales